均匀水底上二维随机波面的二阶谱   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1       下载免费PDF全文

孙孚  丁平兴  余宙文 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(1):1-6

本文用摄动方法导出了均匀水底上精确至二阶的二维随机波动解。依据此解并将二阶谱定义为三阶矩函数的Fourier变换,首次给出了精确至二阶的二维随机波面二阶谱的理论表达式并简略地考虑了它的各个组成部分的物理意义。  相似文献   

Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas     

Michel K. Ochi  Chen-Han Tsai 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(3):157-165

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.  相似文献   

Modeling bed-load transport of coarse sediments in the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

A. Bilgili  M. R. Swift  D. R. Lynch  J. T. C. Ip 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,58(4):937-950

Current, sea level and bed-load transport are investigated in the Lower Piscataqua River section of the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA—a well-mixed and geometrically complex system with low freshwater input, having main channel tidal currents ranging between 0.5 and 2 m s⁻¹. Current and sea level forced by the M₂M₄M₆ tides at the estuarine mouth are simulated by a vertically averaged, non-linear, time-stepping finite element model. The hydrodynamic model uses a fixed boundary computational domain and accounts for flooding–drying of tidal flats by making use of a groundwater component. Inertia terms are neglected in comparison with pressure gradient and bottom friction terms, which is consistent with the observed principal dynamic balance for this section of the system. The accuracy of hydrodynamic predictions in the study area is demonstrated by comparison with four tidal elevation stations and two cross-section averaged current measurements. Simulated current is then used to model bed-load transport in the vicinity of a rapidly growing shoal located in the main channel of the lower system. Consisting of coarse sand and gravel, the shoal must be dredged every five to eight years. Two approaches are taken—an Eulerian parametric method in which nodal bed-load flux vectors are averaged over the tidal cycle and a Lagrangian particle tracking approach in which a finite number of sediment particles are released and tracked. Both methods yield pathways and accumulations in agreement with the observed shoal formation and the long-term rate of sediment accumulation in the shoal area.  相似文献   

Gravity torques for surface waves     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   

热带太平洋-印度洋上层热含量年际变化的主模态   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

武术  刘秦玉  胡瑞金 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2007,37(3):365-371

利用多种海洋资料,采用经验正交函数分解(EOF)与合成分析等方法研究了热带太平洋-印度洋热含量年际变化的主要模态及其对应的转换过程。结果表明其第一模态对应El Nino事件成熟位相时的空间分布,即热带西太平洋和东印度洋为一冷中心,西南印度洋和赤道东太平洋为暖中心;第二模态对应着El Nino事件过渡期的空间分布,太平洋10°N附近以及赤道带为变化中心,而印度洋的变化中心主要在苏门答腊岛西部的赤道东印度洋海区。这2个模态基本刻画了ENSO循环过程中热带两大洋热含量变化的关键海区。利用合成分析结果与EOF分解结果的相似性,探讨了EOF分解前两个模态之间的转换过程,发现第一模态可能主要是通过海洋波动的传播过程调整到第二模态的,而第二模态还可以作为El Nino或La Nina事件的预报因子。此外,分析结果还表明,El Nino事件与La Nina事件对应的热含量变化并不是反对称的。  相似文献   

Stokes波的谱特性分析     

马汝建  李桂喜 《海洋工程》2001,19(4):52-57

应用理论推导及数值计算方法，对Stokes随机波的谱特性进行了分析。首先将波面方程，海水质点水平速度用一阶波面分量的非线性组合表示，应用平稳随机高阶短的降阶计算法则，得到了波面方程及海水质点水平速度与一阶波面分量的自相关函数之间的关系，从而确定了Stokes随机波浪的波浪谱密度及海水质点水平速度和加速度谱密度，进而求得有关波浪要素的均方根值。文章还应有数值计算方法，分析了波浪基本参数对均方根值的影响。  相似文献   

New Numerical Scheme for Simulation of Hyperbolic Mild-Slope Equation   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

ZHENG Yonghong 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):185-194

The original hyperbolic mild-slope equation can effectively take into account the combined effects of wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection, but does not consider the nonlinear effect of waves, and the existing numerical schemes for it show some deficiencies. Based on the original hyperbolic mild-slope equation, a nonlinear dispersion relation is introduced in present paper to effectively take the nonlinear effect of waves into account and a new numerical scheme is proposed. The weakly nonlinear dispersion relation and the improved numerical scheme are applied to the simulation of wave transformation over an elliptic shoal. Numerical tests show that the improvement of the numerical scheme makes efficient the solution to the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. A comparison of numerical results with experimental data indicates that the results obtained by use of the new scheme are satisfactory.  相似文献   

Instability analysis of three-dimensional ocean shear waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Qiao Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(1):1-8

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Pitfalls in the estimation of wind wave directional spectra by variational principles     

Jos Ochoa  Oscar E. Delgado-Gonzlez 《Applied Ocean Research》1990,12(4):180-187

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Wave-Current Forces on Slender Circular Cylinders   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Li Yucheng  Wang Fenglong  Kang Haigui Professor  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Senior Engineer  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Lecturer  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1991,(3)

- A series model tests of wave forces by both regular and irregular waves combined with currents on single piles and bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays have been carried out. Based on Morison Equation, linear wave theory and linear wave spectrum theory as well, the characteristics of inline, lift and resultant forces on cylinders have been analyzed respectively. The drag, inertia and lift coefficients CD, CM and CL f皉 single piles related to KC number and the grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays related to KC number are given in this paper.  相似文献